Sunday, November 15, 2015

NOVEMBER 15, A TRAIN RIDE FROM KANDY TO HATTON, ON THE TEA TRAIL

We got up this morning and had another wonderful breakfast provided by the Clingenendael  chef.   I'm not a huge yoghurt fan, but wow, they had wonderful yoghurt.  It was thicker than any other yoghurt I've had, and it was tart.  They also made the best scrambled eggs we've had since we've been on this trip.  "How can one mess up scrambled eggs?" you say.  Simply put, the best kind, up to now, sort of tasted like eggs.

It was a rainy, misty morning which didn't bode well for a train ride through the mountains to Hatton.  Ah, well, off we go.  We left the hotel at 9:30.  Since it was Sunday, we had some time for a quick drive through Kandy.  The traffic was not slowed to a stop, just crowded.  Gabriel had mentioned how difficult it was to park.  On the main drag, cars and tuk tuks were parked double.  If you were by the curb, good luck to you.  What struck us were the colonial buildings throughout the city centre.  In the city, surrounded by what looked like castle walls, was the prison.  The British, apparently, set up prisons in city centres to keep everyone on their best behaviour.
Local market at the edge of town

A view of city centre

The Queen's Hotel

We still had some time, so Gabriel drove us through the campus of Peradeniya University.  It was set up by the British around 1940, and there are still some British lecturers there now.  University campuses have a certain look about them, this one was no different.
One of several student dorms.  Big difference here and there, the students' laundry was all over the dorms.

I have been really trying to get banana shop pictures.  At long last!  There are at least four different varieties in this one shop.  I know there are many more that are for sale.


We finally drove to the Peradeniya Junction (the railroad).  We were extremely early, even after our extra tours, but the place is like an old British railway museum.  It was worth the whole trip.


Old railroad switches
Grains ready to take the train

Our train was traveling ultimately to Badulla.  I really liked the little hands showing which way the train was traveling
In a Kipling story called "The Man Who Would Be King" the two scoundrels were to meet at Malabar Junction.  Here is Peradeniya Junction

The pile of grass in the photo is being carried by a man.  We saw people carrying great loads of grass in all our travels in Sri Lanka.  It's for cows.  I'm not sure why they need a great load of grass when the place is green and covered by grass.  Maybe they like to be catered to?
The man with the basket was selling rolls and bread to people in the station and on the train

The train left Peradeniya about 12:45.  We were supposed to be in an observation, first class car.  We did get lunch.  But the windows of our car were smaller than in the regular cars. When we first sat down, our original seats were by a space between windows.  We quickly got up and took over some seats by the windows so we could see something. We ended up riding backwards all the way to Hatton.  The train really rattled and jolted down the track.  Since it was raining our view was somewhat obscured by rain drops and mist.  A moody ride at best.  Charlie, who tends to suffer from sea sickness, was a bit unhappy the first part of the ride.  Rocking around, blurry windows, scenery whipping past rather quickly, and the smell of diesel put him off.  Eventually, I opened our window.  It didn't help much except the view wasn't as blurry.  I got drenched instead.  When a one inch puddle formed on the floor, I really felt I needed to shut the window.  Charlie claimed he was better by that point.  Just before we got to Hatton, the conductor told us Hatton would be the next stop.  We were the only people getting off here.  The conductor had us walk down the aisle to the back of the car near the exit.  As I mentioned, the train was really rolling, rocking, and rattling down the track, which made a walk to the rear of the car not easy to do.  At one point, I started to tip over, and ended up clinging to the seat cushion next to a passenger.  Apparently, I fell like a kite with no wind, rather than toppling like a tree.  The woman passenger asked if I had done that on purpose.  I wish I had said yes.  When we got to the rear of the car, the conductor opened the door, and I had a sinking feeling we were going to have to jump from the moving train onto the track.  Mercifully, the train stopped for a few moments so we could get off.
My blurry train windows with a view of another station along the way

This man was selling lottery tickets
Tea plants and trees on hillside from the train

Gabriel had driven to Hatton while we were on the train.  He met us at the station and drove us to the bungalow where we are to stay the next couple of days.  It is part of what is called Ceylon Tea Trails, and it is beautiful.  The rooms for guests are like lovely, large bedrooms of an elegant home.  There is a living room and dining area and veranda.  We can do laundry as part of our stay.  Alcoholic drinks are included in our package as well.  We get breakfast, lunch, a full afternoon tea, and dinner.  Snacks are also included if we feel peckish.  Since we arrived at 4 PM, we were in time for tea.  I had a scone with strawberry jam and clotted cream.  I can see after two days in this place, I'll turn into a hobbit. Very colonial and very lovely.  No wonder the British didn't leave this place really until the 70s.
Tea plant covered hillsides

Colonial cottage on way to bungalow

Charlie on the Veranda for tea

The sitting area in our room

No comments:

Post a Comment